Day 27 – San Justo de la Vega to Astorga

7.35 km ~ 10,365 steps

Song of the Day: Rivers and Roads – The Head and the Heart

Today, I decided, was all about perspective. I would do a short day today, just to Astorga. By the “stage”, I should have ended there yesterday so it was only about 6 km from San Justo de la Vega. That way, I could feel like I was still making some progress but also not push myself when I was feeling so gross still. I was able to sleep in, called places in Astorga and asking if any dogs would be allowed. After about 20 different calls though, I was feeling defeated again. I finally bit the bullet and booked a more expensive place for the night because I knew I needed the rest day. And that’s what this is all about. Listening to what your body needs.

Archaeological site in Astorga
Gaudi architecture in Astorga


The walk here wasn’t bad, though don’t even get me started on the infrastructure of that blue bridge over the train tracks on the way in. I do have to say though, probably one of my favorite pieces of graffiti was here. “Buen Camino to everyone, except the person who made this bridge”.

Walking into Astorga, I can see it’s beautiful. There’s so much history here, like the Roman ruins that have been uncovered for example. But I’m frustrated at myself because I’m in a beautiful place and a city with so much history, and I’ve probably slept 75% of the day away. I wish I was out at least exploring it if I have to rest. I’m frustrated because I feel like I’m not a “true pilgrim” because I have yet to stay in a large albergue or cook a meal with my fellow pilgrims. I feel like I’m “cheating” the experience and staying in too nice of a place.

The place I’m staying in, while expensive, is beautiful. The older man is so nice to Maverick, even gave him a bone! I feel like I’m on vacation, not a pilgrimage. And even then, I’m just sleeping it away.


But then I realize it’s all about perspective. So tonight, I will be happy that I have an amazing room in a wonderful place with people who love Maverick. I will be thankful neither of us have sustained injuries that will prohibit us from continuing to our end goal. I will accept that while I may not be able to stay in municipal albergues or cook with pilgrims or attend pilgrim masses, I know that one day when I return for another pilgrimage, I will be so excited to have that experience. I will content myself with the fact that I’m not “cheating” and I am a “true pilgrim” because although we have stayed in a few nice places, we have also cried in patches of dirt after being turned away countless times. We have slept in gardens on a mat, and in tents, and on sidewalks. I carry the same pack and shell as any other pilgrim, though my pack contains more dog food than clothing. And all these things make our way no better or worse, simply different.