Day 13 – Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Belorado

25.6 km ~ 35,973 steps

Song of the Day: Featherstone – The Paper Kites

Well, each day comes with a new adventure I suppose. Today was probably the most boring Camino day (I feel almost sacrilegious for even saying that but it’s true!) most of the day stayed close to a busy highway which I wasn’t a huge fan of.

Luckily, the weather wasn’t too hot and we felt like we were on a roll so we didn’t stop at the first village we came to for breakfast. I figured we’d keep up our momentum and get breakfast at the next town. Only, the next town didn’t have any open bars. So we pushed in to the next village. Again, we found a practical ghost town. This trend continued all the way until we finally neared Belorado. Thank goodness we made it to Belorado by noon, because I was pretty hungry by then. Stopped into the very first place I came across once we got into town and dug in to some lunch before setting off in search of food for Maverick.

This search took me outside of the historical part of the city, away from anything other pilgrims may journey to. In a way, that’s kind of nice because I get to truly see what life here is like more than staying on a set path like so many others do. But I’m also tired by the end of each day so adding on even more steps isn’t always the most exciting thing to do.

Again, no albergues would allow Maverick in to stay the night. Cuatro Cantones said he would be allowed to stay in the garden but when I asked if I could pitch my tent there, they turned me down. Finding no other options, I returned and ended up paying 8€ for a bed and hoping they would let me just sleep on a pad in the garden. There are a lot of very nice people in this albergue, so that’s been fun.

We had dinner with a man from Germany and two young guys from Italy who were biking. This was my first time actually talking to biking pilgrims so that has been interesting to see just how different it is. I’m excited to get to Burgos in the next couple days and take a rest day in the city.

Unfortunately, no albergues will let dogs in here which wouldn’t be a problem normally because I would find somewhere to pitch my tent, but there really isn’t any green space in this town either. Just another obstacle to overcome!

Inside of the cliffside cathedral in Belorado
Mural in Belorado
Mural in Belorado
Statue outside the albergue we stayed in the garden of
Garden night